Can You Modify a 40ft High Cube Container?

The short answer is yes — you absolutely can modify a 40ft high cube container, and it is one of the most popular container types for modification projects worldwide. But the real question is not whether you can modify one; it is how to do it correctly, safely, legally, and within budget. This guide answers every dimension of that question, drawing on engineering principles, real-world pricing data, and the collective experience of thousands of modified container projects.

Key Takeaway: A 40ft high cube container offers 320 square feet of floor space with an extra foot of ceiling height compared to a standard container — making it the ideal canvas for offices, workshops, homes, retail spaces, and industrial applications. The extra height is particularly valuable when you add insulation and still want comfortable headroom.

What Is a 40ft High Cube Container — and How Is It Different from a Standard 40ft Container?

Before you modify anything, you need to understand exactly what you are working with.

Dimensions and Specifications

A 40ft high cube shipping container is a standardized intermodal steel container built to ISO specifications. The defining characteristic is its extra height: 9 feet 6 inches (2.89 meters) on the exterior, compared to 8 feet 6 inches (2.59 meters) for a standard container. That extra foot — roughly 12 inches of additional vertical space — transforms what you can do with the interior.

Internally, a high cube container typically measures approximately 39 feet 5 inches long, 7 feet 8 inches wide, and 8 feet 10 inches high. The interior volume is approximately 2,698 cubic feet (76.4 cubic meters). The tare weight (empty weight) of a 40ft high cube is around 8,400 to 10,500 pounds, depending on the manufacturer and features such as fork pockets or gooseneck tunnel.

Key Differences: Standard vs. High Cube

The table below lays out the critical differences between the standard 40ft container and the 40ft high cube. These differences matter enormously when you are planning modifications.

The extra foot of interior height is the single most important reason to choose a high cube for any modification project. In a standard container, adding 4 inches of insulation to the ceiling reduces your headroom to roughly 7 feet 6 inches — tight for a finished space. In a high cube, that same insulation leaves you with a comfortable 8 feet 6 inches of ceiling height. For anyone over 6 feet tall, the difference is transformational.

The high cube also has slightly different structural characteristics. The taller side walls mean that the corner posts and top rail carry different load distributions compared to a standard container, and this matters when you cut openings for doors and windows.

Can You Actually Modify a 40ft High Cube Container?

Yes — and Here Is Why It Is One of the Most Popular Containers to Modify

The 40ft high cube is the workhorse of the container modification industry. Companies like Super Cubes, Container Technology Inc., E&S Equipment Sales, and dozens of others have built their businesses around transforming these containers into offices, workshops, retail spaces, clinics, homes, and specialized industrial units. The container modification market has matured to the point where you can buy pre-engineered modification kits — door flashing kits, window frames, lock boxes, and ventilation systems — designed specifically for shipping containers.

The high cube’s popularity stems from several factors:

• Generous dimensions: 320 square feet of floor space is roughly the size of a large one-car garage or a small studio apartment.
• Extra height: As discussed, the additional foot of ceiling height is invaluable for insulation, overhead storage, and general comfort.
• Availability: 40ft high cubes are among the most common container types in circulation, making them relatively easy to find and competitively priced.
• Structural integrity: Shipping containers are engineered to carry 60,000+ pounds of cargo and withstand stacking nine high on a ship. The Corten steel frame is extraordinarily strong, giving you a robust starting point.

What Makes the High Cube Uniquely Suited to Modification

Beyond the extra height, the 40ft high cube has a flat, corrugated steel roof that is ideal for mounting solar panels, skylights, ventilation turbines, or even a green roof system. The longer length compared to a 20ft container means you can create distinct zones — an office at one end, storage at the other, or a living space with a separated bedroom — without feeling cramped.

The corrugated steel walls also provide natural attachment points for shelving, framing, and interior partitions. The vertical corrugations are the strongest structural elements of the side walls, and any modification that attaches to the container should anchor to these corrugations, not to the flat sections between them.

Limitations: What You Should NOT Attempt

Despite the container’s strength, there are boundaries you should not cross without professional engineering support:

• Removing corner posts: The four corner castings and the posts beneath them are the load-bearing spine of the container. Cutting or removing a corner post will collapse the container’s structural integrity.
• Removing the entire top rail: The top rail (the continuous steel beam running along the top edge of the side walls) distributes roof loads to the corner posts. Large sections should not be removed without engineered reinforcement.
• Cutting more than 60% of a single wall panel: The corrugated steel walls derive their strength from the continuous wave pattern. Removing too much wall area without a properly designed steel frame can cause buckling.
• Stacking without engineering: If you plan to stack modified containers, the load paths change significantly once walls are cut. A structural engineer must verify the modified container can still carry the load.

What Are the Most Common 40ft High Cube Container Modifications?

Doors and Access Modifications

Personnel Doors (Man Doors): Installing a standard 36-inch by 80-inch steel personnel door is one of the most common modifications. It provides walk-in access without requiring you to open the heavy cargo doors every time. The installation involves cutting an opening in the corrugated wall, welding a steel frame into the opening, mounting the door, and weather-sealing all edges. A properly installed personnel door with a lock box transforms a container into a secure, accessible space. Expect to pay $800–$1,500 for a professionally installed personnel door.

Roll-Up Doors: For drive-in access — tractors, forklifts, vehicles, or large equipment — a roll-up door is the modification of choice. Typically installed on one end wall, a roll-up door requires cutting out the entire end panel (except the corner posts and top rail), installing heavy-gauge steel tube reinforcement around the perimeter, and mounting the roll-up track and door mechanism. Roll-up doors can be 6 to 10 feet wide and cost $2,000–$4,000 installed, depending on width and door quality.

Double-Door (Tunnel) Containers: Some containers are manufactured with cargo doors at both ends, enabling drive-through access. If you need this configuration, it is far more cost-effective to buy a factory double-door container than to cut and install cargo doors on a standard single-door unit.

Windows and Natural Light

Installing windows transforms a dark steel box into a usable workspace or living area. Commercial-grade slider windows (typically 36 by 24 inches or 48 by 36 inches) are framed with steel reinforcement welded to the vertical corrugations. Dual-pane insulated glass is standard for modified containers to prevent condensation and provide thermal efficiency.

Window placement matters. South-facing windows (in the Northern Hemisphere) provide maximum natural light but also maximum heat gain. East-facing windows bring morning light with less thermal burden. North-facing windows provide consistent diffused light without direct sun exposure. Skylights are another option, mounted on the roof with polycarbonate domes and rubber gasket seals. Every roof penetration requires meticulous waterproofing — high-pressure water testing is standard practice for professional installers.

Insulation and Climate Control

An uninsulated shipping container in summer can reach internal temperatures above 120°F (49°C). In winter, it becomes a steel refrigerator. Insulation is non-negotiable for any occupied space.

Closed-cell spray foam insulation is the gold standard for container modifications. It provides both thermal insulation (R-6 to R-7 per inch) and a seamless vapor barrier — critical because steel walls generate condensation when warm, humid interior air meets cold exterior metal. Without a vapor barrier, moisture accumulates between the insulation and the steel, causing rust and mold. Spray foam eliminates this problem by bonding directly to the steel.

Typical applications: R-13 (approximately 2 inches) for basic temperature control; R-21 (approximately 3 inches) for climate-controlled environments. A DIY spray foam kit for a 40ft container costs roughly $1,000–$2,000; professional application costs $2,500–$5,000.

HVAC integration: Most container modifications use wall-mounted mini-split systems. A precision cutout with steel sleeve reinforcement is required for the refrigerant line set. The HVAC unit itself must be installed by a licensed contractor. Ventilation — roof-mounted turbine vents or louvered wall vents — prevents moisture buildup and provides airflow, particularly important for agricultural storage (hay, feed) and workshop applications.

Electrical and Plumbing

Electrical modifications start with a panel cutout — a weatherproof access point for a licensed electrician to install a breaker box. Standard cutouts accommodate 100-amp or 200-amp service. Interior lighting cutouts, outlet mounting points, and conduit runs are all part of the electrical modification package.

Plumbing is more involved. If you are adding a bathroom or kitchen, you will need to cut floor penetrations for drain lines, install water supply lines (typically PEX tubing run through the walls or ceiling), and plan for a water heater and ventilation. These are not trivial modifications and almost always require professional contractors.

Interior Build-Outs

Shelving: Industrial-strength steel brackets welded to the vertical wall corrugations support lumber or steel shelves. Properly installed, each shelf can hold several hundred pounds.

Partition Walls: Steel stud framing, covered with plywood or OSB sheathing, divides the container into separate zones. A common configuration is a 15-foot office with a 25-foot storage area, separated by a partition wall with a connecting door.

Workbenches: Steel framing welded to the container walls, with work surfaces at standard 36-inch height. Tool storage and electrical access are integrated into the design.

Exterior Modifications

Paint and Coatings: Custom paint matches branding, improves aesthetics, and protects against corrosion. The process involves power washing, rust removal, primer application, and two-coat coverage with commercial-grade exterior paint. Cost: $1,500–$3,500 for a full 40ft container.

Security: Lock boxes — steel enclosures welded around the cargo door locking bars — protect padlocks from bolt cutters. Additional security options include reinforced locking bar assemblies, security cameras, and motion-sensor lighting.

Ramps: Steel ramps with non-slip surfaces enable wheeled equipment access. Standard ramps are 36 inches wide, rated for mowers, ATVs, and pallet jacks.

How Much Does It Cost to Modify a 40ft High Cube Container?

Container Purchase Costs

Before you spend a dollar on modifications, you need the container itself. Prices vary by condition grade:

• New / One-Trip ($4,000–$7,000): A container that made one cargo trip from the factory in China to a destination port. Near-perfect condition, minimal rust, factory paint intact. Ideal for high-end residential or commercial projects where appearance matters.
• Cargo Worthy / Used ($2,500–$4,500): Certified for cargo transport, meaning it has a valid CSC plate and has passed structural inspection. Some surface rust, minor dents, but structurally sound. The sweet spot for most modification projects.
• Wind & Water Tight / Used ($1,800–$3,500): Structurally sound but no longer certified for cargo. May have cosmetic issues, surface rust, and minor repairs. The floor is solid, the roof does not leak, and the doors seal. Best value for storage and workshop modifications.
• As-Is ($1,000–$2,000): Sold without guarantees. May have significant rust, floor damage, or door issues. Only suitable if you are prepared to do extensive refurbishment.

The 40ft high cube typically commands a $200–$600 premium over the standard 40ft container.

Total Project Cost Examples

A basic storage modification — personnel door, two vents, lock box, and paint — might total $3,000–$5,000 in modifications on top of the container cost.

A fully equipped workshop — roll-up door, insulation, electrical panel, windows, shelving, workbench, ventilation, and custom paint — could range from $12,000 to $25,000 in modifications.

A turnkey container office — insulation, HVAC, multiple windows, electrical, interior walls, flooring, and finishes — typically runs $20,000–$40,000.

A container home built from a 40ft high cube — with full plumbing, kitchen, bathroom, insulation, electrical, windows, doors, and finishes — can range from $35,000 to $80,000 or more depending on the level of finish.

DIY vs. Professional: The Cost Equation

The single biggest variable in modification costs is whether you do the work yourself or hire professionals. DIY can save 40–60% on labor but requires welding skills, metal fabrication knowledge, and a significant time investment. The tools alone — welder, angle grinder, plasma cutter, safety equipment — can cost $1,500–$3,000 before you make your first cut.

Professional modification shops have the advantage of experience, certified fabricators, and in many cases, licensed container surveyors who verify structural integrity. They also carry liability insurance, which is important if something goes wrong. For structural modifications — roll-up doors, large window openings, roof penetrations — professional installation is strongly recommended.

How Does Cutting a Shipping Container Affect Structural Integrity?

This is the most important technical question in container modification, and the one that DIY builders most frequently get wrong.

The Engineering Behind Corrugated Steel Walls

A shipping container is not a simple steel box. It is an engineered structure in which every component contributes to the overall load-bearing system. The corrugated steel side walls function as deep beams — the continuous wave pattern creates stiffness that resists bending, racking, and torsional forces. When a container is stacked on a ship, the corner posts carry the vertical load, but the side walls resist the lateral forces from ship movement, wind, and the weight of containers above.

The top rail — a continuous steel beam running the length of the container along the top of the side walls — ties the roof to the corner posts and distributes loads. The bottom rail does the same at the floor level. The corner posts and corner castings are the primary vertical load-bearing elements.

When you cut an opening in a wall, you are removing a section of this structural system. The forces that flowed through that section must now find an alternative path. If you do not provide that path — through a properly designed steel reinforcement frame — the container will lose strength. In extreme cases, the roof can sag, the walls can buckle, and the container can become unsafe.

How to Reinforce Openings Correctly

The standard method for reinforcing an opening is to weld a steel tube frame (typically 2×2 inch or 3×3 inch square tubing, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wall thickness) around the entire perimeter of the cut. This frame is welded to the remaining corrugated wall sections, the top rail, and the bottom rail. The frame effectively replaces the removed wall section, redirecting loads around the opening.

The sequence matters:

1. Mark the opening precisely, accounting for the frame dimensions.
2. Cut the opening using an angle grinder, plasma cutter, or reciprocating saw. Cut slightly inside the marked lines to leave room for the frame.
3. Weld the frame into the opening. The frame must be perfectly square and level. Tack welds first, then full welds.
4. Install the door or window into the frame using appropriate fasteners.
5. Seal all edges with marine-grade polyurethane sealant. This is not optional — water intrusion at the frame-container interface is the most common source of rust and failure in modified containers.

When to Hire a Structural Engineer

If you are doing any of the following, hire a structural engineer:

• Cutting an opening larger than 4 feet wide in a side wall
• Removing more than 30% of any single wall panel
• Stacking modified containers
• Modifying a container for human occupancy (residential or commercial)
• Working in a jurisdiction that requires stamped engineering drawings for permits

A structural engineer will calculate the load paths, specify the required reinforcement, and provide stamped drawings. This typically costs $500–$2,000, depending on the complexity of the project. It is a small price to pay for certainty that your modified container will not fail.

What Permits and Zoning Rules Apply to Modified Containers?

The regulatory landscape for shipping containers is fragmented. There is no single national standard in the United States — regulation happens at the state, county, and municipal level. However, consistent patterns emerge.

Temporary vs. Permanent Placement

The single most important distinction in permit requirements is whether the container is placed temporarily or permanently.

A container placed temporarily — typically 30 to 90 days, depending on the jurisdiction — on bare ground, gravel, or timber sleepers, without utility connections, is often exempt from permit requirements. This covers construction site storage, renovation overflow, and short-term projects.

A container placed permanently — on a concrete pad, pier foundation, or anchored structure, or connected to utilities — is treated as a permanent accessory structure. This triggers building permit requirements, setback compliance, and zoning verification.

Zoning by Property Type

HOA and Deed Restrictions

Homeowners association rules and deed restrictions operate independently of local zoning codes and can be more restrictive. Many HOAs prohibit visible storage containers regardless of what the municipality allows. Before ordering a container for a residential property, review your HOA’s CC&Rs (Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions) and your property deed. HOA violations typically result in written notices, escalating fines, and in persistent cases, legal action requiring removal at the property owner’s expense.

The Foundation Threshold

One practical rule applies across most U.S. jurisdictions: a container on a permanent foundation is a permanent structure for permit purposes. A container on bare ground or gravel can be repositioned, which is why many jurisdictions treat it as temporary. A container on a concrete pad cannot be easily moved, which is why local authorities treat it the same as any other permanent accessory structure.

What Tools Do You Need to Modify a Shipping Container Yourself?

If you are taking the DIY route, the right tools are non-negotiable. Using the wrong tool wastes time, produces inferior results, and can be dangerous.

Welding Equipment

Welding is the foundation of container modification. You will use a welder to weld reinforcement frames into openings, attach shelving brackets, weld containers together (for multi-container builds), and secure the container to foundation pads.

For most DIY container projects, a 220V MIG welder is the best choice. A 110V MIG welder works for thin metal but struggles with the heavier sections of a container. If you only have 110V access, pair it with a stick welder for the thicker sections. A dual-voltage MIG welder that handles both 110V and 220V input offers maximum flexibility.

Cutting Tools

Three tools dominate container cutting:

• Angle Grinder with Cut-Off Wheels: The most versatile and affordable option. Use 4.5-inch or 6-inch wheels rated for metal. Great for straight cuts, cleaning up edges, and grinding welds. The trade-off is speed — cutting through Corten steel with a grinder is slow, noisy work.
• Plasma Cutter: The fastest and cleanest option for cutting large sections of container wall. A plasma cutter can slice through steel like butter, but the equipment is expensive ($500–$2,000+) and requires an air compressor. If you have many cuts to make, a plasma cutter pays for itself in time saved.
• Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall): Useful for cutting in tight spaces and for demolition work. Use high-quality metal-cutting blades. The vibration can be intense, and the cut quality is rougher than a grinder or plasma cutter.

Insulation and Finishing Tools

• Spray Foam Insulation Kit: A two-part closed-cell polyurethane kit with hoses, spray nozzles, and chemical cylinders. A single kit (e.g., Froth-Pak 650) covers approximately 650 board feet, which may be enough for a single 40ft container depending on the number of openings. Cost: $800–$1,200 per kit.
• Framing Nailer or Screw Gun: For attaching interior framing, sheathing, and finishes.
• Caulking Gun: For marine-grade sealant application around every penetration.

Safety Equipment Essentials

• Welding helmet (auto-darkening preferred)
• Welding gloves and leather apron
• Safety glasses (wear under the welding helmet)
• Respirator (rated for welding fumes and spray foam chemicals)
• Hearing protection
• Steel-toe boots
• Fire extinguisher (keep it within arm’s reach)

What Are the Most Common Mistakes When Modifying a 40ft High Cube Container?

Buying the Wrong Container Condition

The most common and expensive mistake is purchasing a container that is not suitable for modification. A container with severe rust, floor rot, or structural damage will cost more to repair than the price difference to buy a better-grade container. Inspect the container in person if possible. If buying remotely, request high-resolution photos of the roof, floor, corner castings, and door seals. Look specifically for:

• Rust through the roof panel (not just surface rust)
• Soft spots in the plywood floor (indicating water damage)
• Dents deeper than 1 inch in the corrugated walls
• Door hinges that are bent or seized
• Signs of previous chemical cargo (stains, odors, placards)

Skipping Structural Reinforcement

Every cut in a container wall requires a steel reinforcement frame. Period. There is no shortcut. Some DIY builders attempt to install windows or doors without a frame, relying on the window or door unit itself to provide structural support. This is dangerous. The window frame is not designed to carry the loads that the removed wall section carried. Over time, the container will distort around the opening, the door or window will bind, and leaks will develop.

Using the Wrong Insulation

The most common insulation mistake is using fiberglass batts or rigid foam board without a vapor barrier. Steel is a vapor barrier. If you place fiberglass insulation against a steel wall, moisture from the interior air will condense on the cold steel, saturate the insulation, and cause rust and mold. The only insulation types that work reliably in direct contact with container walls are:

• Closed-cell spray foam (best option — insulation + vapor barrier in one)
• Rigid foam board with taped and sealed seams (acceptable if meticulously installed)
• Rock wool / mineral wool (naturally moisture-resistant, but still requires a separate vapor barrier)

Ignoring Permits and Codes

The stories are legion: a homeowner modifies a container into a beautiful workshop, only to receive a code violation notice because the container violates setback requirements, or because the electrical work was done without a permit, or because the HOA prohibits storage containers. Always check with your local planning department before you start. The hour you spend on the phone with the building department is worth far more than the thousands of dollars and months of stress that come from an enforcement action.

Poor Weather Sealing

Every penetration — every door, window, vent, electrical cutout, and roof opening — is a potential leak point. Marine-grade polyurethane sealant (not silicone, not acrylic caulk) is the standard for container modifications. Apply it generously to both the interior and exterior of every frame. Professional modification shops pressure-test every penetration with high-pressure water spray before delivery. DIY builders should do the same — run a hose over every seam for several minutes and check the interior for moisture.

Not Planning for Condensation

Even with insulation, containers can develop condensation problems if ventilation is inadequate. The steel floor, in particular, is a cold surface that can collect moisture. If you are building a living space or office, plan for a ventilation strategy: passive vents, powered exhaust fans, or an HVAC system that includes dehumidification. Agricultural storage containers need even more ventilation — one roof vent per 10–12 feet of container length is recommended for hay storage to prevent mold.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you modify a 40ft high cube container?

Yes, absolutely. The 40ft high cube container is one of the most commonly modified container types in the world. Its extra height compared to a standard container makes it ideal for modifications that include insulation, ceiling finishes, and overhead installations. You can add doors, windows, insulation, electrical systems, plumbing, ventilation, shelving, partition walls, and more. The key is to follow proper structural reinforcement practices and comply with local building codes and permit requirements.

How much does it cost to modify a 40ft high cube container?

Modification costs vary widely depending on the scope of work. Basic modifications (personnel door, vents, lock box, paint) range from $3,000 to $5,000. A fully equipped workshop with insulation, roll-up door, electrical, windows, and shelving ranges from $12,000 to $25,000. A turnkey container office costs $20,000 to $40,000. A complete container home built from a 40ft high cube runs $35,000 to $80,000 or more. DIY can reduce costs by 40–60% but requires welding skills and a significant time investment.

What tools do I need to modify a shipping container?

The essential tools are a welder (MIG is recommended for most DIYers), an angle grinder with cut-off wheels, a plasma cutter (optional but valuable for large projects), a reciprocating saw, a spray foam insulation kit, and comprehensive safety equipment including a welding helmet, gloves, respirator, and fire extinguisher. Expect to spend $1,500–$3,000 on tools before you begin.

Do I need a permit to modify a shipping container?

It depends on your location, the intended use, and whether the container is placed temporarily or permanently. Temporary containers (30–90 days) used for storage on agricultural or commercial land often do not require permits. Permanent containers on residential property, containers converted to occupied spaces, and container dwellings almost always require permits. Always check with your local planning or building department before starting.

How does cutting a shipping container affect its structural integrity?

Cutting an opening in a container wall removes a section of the corrugated steel that contributes to the container’s overall structural system. The forces that flowed through that section must be redirected through a properly designed steel reinforcement frame welded into the opening. Without reinforcement, the container can sag, buckle, and become unsafe. For large openings (over 4 feet wide), consult a structural engineer.

What is the difference between a standard and high cube container?

The primary difference is height. A standard 40ft container has an exterior height of 8 feet 6 inches and an interior height of approximately 7 feet 10 inches. A 40ft high cube has an exterior height of 9 feet 6 inches and an interior height of approximately 8 feet 10 inches. That extra foot of interior height is critical for modifications that include ceiling insulation, as it allows you to maintain comfortable headroom after adding insulation and finishes.

Can I cut a 40ft container into two 20ft containers?

In theory, yes — but it is an extremely difficult and expensive DIY project. Cutting a container in half requires welding new corner posts and corner castings onto the cut ends, installing a new end wall and door assembly, and ensuring the structural integrity of both resulting units. The cost of the steel, welding, and engineering typically exceeds the cost of simply buying two 20ft containers. Most experts recommend against it.

What insulation is best for a shipping container?

Closed-cell spray foam insulation is the best option for most container modifications. It provides both thermal insulation and a seamless vapor barrier, bonding directly to the steel to prevent condensation — the number one cause of rust and mold in modified containers. Rigid foam board with taped seams is a viable alternative if meticulously installed. Fiberglass batts should not be used in direct contact with steel walls without a vapor barrier.

How do I install windows and doors in a shipping container?

The process involves: (1) marking the opening precisely, (2) cutting the opening with an angle grinder or plasma cutter, (3) welding a steel tube frame into the opening to restore structural integrity, (4) mounting the door or window unit into the frame, and (5) sealing all edges with marine-grade polyurethane sealant. The frame is the critical step — skipping it compromises the container’s structure.

What are the most common mistakes when modifying a shipping container?

The five most common mistakes are: (1) buying a container in poor condition that requires expensive repairs, (2) cutting openings without installing steel reinforcement frames, (3) using the wrong type of insulation (fiberglass without a vapor barrier), (4) ignoring local permit and zoning requirements, and (5) failing to properly weather-seal all penetrations, leading to leaks and rust.

How long does a modified shipping container last?

A properly modified shipping container, built from Corten steel and maintained with regular inspections and touch-up painting, can last 25 years or more. The primary threats to longevity are rust (especially at cut edges and around penetrations), floor rot (if the plywood floor is exposed to moisture), and door mechanism wear. Annual inspections of all seals, welds, and the roof membrane will extend the container’s service life significantly.

Can I stack modified 40ft high cube containers?

Yes, but only with proper engineering. Modified containers have altered load paths because of the cut openings. A structural engineer must verify that the modified containers can still carry the stacking loads and must specify any additional reinforcement needed. The connections between stacked containers must also be engineered — standard twist locks may not be sufficient if the container walls have been substantially modified.

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